Bipolar Bicoastal

-I can buy Gros Morne passes here?
-yes how may are there?
-three, one senior, one student. Is there a multiday pass?
-not really, you should buy the family plan.
-this is also good for the Trout River Boat Tour?
-yes

We were off to Bonne Bay and the side of Gros Morne that I was familiar with. It would be the first time since the residency in 2005 and I wondered what it would be like. This was the part of the trip that I was looking forward to. I still remember liking down in Bonne Bay so much that we headed out to the highway only once a week for provisions in Corner Brook.

I know that depression hit when I left the Avalon but just as quickly it disappeared again turning off Route 430 at Wiltondale. I tried to be as patient as possible. I kept telling myself that it would take a long time to make it from Rocky Harbour to Bonne Bay but still it seemed like the same curves came up over and over again.

I was so anxious to remember the Tablelands coming down Route 431 that I mistakingly thought that another set of mountains were them. I kept looking for landmarks and they came at intervals that I wasn’t expecting. The sign for the park was further in than I expected, Lomond was farther than Glenburnie but then they all seemed to appear quite quickly. Had been frantically pointing out places to the crew as we passed.

Some things had changed. The bed and breakfast in Glenburnie was for sale, there were newer and bigger houses on the wrong side of the road. The Discovery Centre seemed improved and expanded.

The boat ride along Trout River Pond was at 1PM it was barely 11.

(Some “wonderful people” just entered the launderette here at Gros Morne Cabins where tonight’s posting is being written marvelling at the washers and dryers)

With the time we had I decided to give a tour of Woody Point - the Parks Canada house the new bypass car park that was nothing but rubble and drainage ditch when Kmack and I would take the short cut to the Seabreeze – knew that the Seabreeze was gone. Went through to Curzon Village before coming and stopping at the former half deaf bar maid there.

Her mother was out on the porch having a smoke with her friend who were up from the GTO. She recognised me and called so that the two Elaine’s could meet. I was caught up on all the news – Muriel was on the mainland so no reason to stop at the Trout River Take out Bonnie Brake had sold the Sunset Café, Shirley was in Fort MacMurray, George was still about the Roses were still up and in Shoal Cove. Elaine’s beau may buy the Rusty Jigger. She won $48 000 in satellite bingo.

I was told to head over to Granite Coffee as Crystal only worked until noon.

Walked in and asked if there was a decent coffee shop in town. She wanted to break the camera, Shelly was out front they came to great my mother. Debbie was hiding in 3T’s everything was back to normal.

On the way out to Trout River for another tour before the boat, stopped in at Martin’s garage to say hello to Bruce and tell him how I saw him the St. John’s this time last year.

Some snaps of his uncle his nephew and other workers but forgot to make one of him. Road by the 3T’s again and threatened Debbie with the camera.

Up and through the Trout River Gulch which while awe inspiring to me, seemed not to do much to my mother. Never been to the southwest of the States but this straight road with the Earth’s mantle on one side and the greenness of the other, I drive gobsmacked.

Was going to take the long way around when all of a sudden the crew asked if there is food on this boat. Not sure.

Up to the Sunset Café for two hamburgers that seem to please them with the thickness of the patty – ah this McDonald’s generation.

Of course what was once plenty of time was now a race to the boat as I had forgot how long it took to walk to it and here the food is actually cooked when the person orders it. I mention that it is getting late and my mother goes into States mode and asks them to hurry it up.

Don’t take the long way into town reckoning that I can give the tour later, but for some reason I do stop at the Trout River Boat Tour Office only to find out that the Boat Ride costs $38 each.

Unexpectedly we have a sizeable chunk of time so I drop my mother off at the Discovery Centre so that she can knit and read and listen to chamber music, abandon Baleful the steward at the Tablelands car park and head for a wander down in Trout River.

Met Marlene at a convenience when I was heading out of town and was told that the images there were so popular that people wanted to buy them – unfortunately they were Kmack’s. It was nice to see a manifestation of our time here at the Trout River Interpretive Centre unfortunately I dealt with the park so mine our moulding in a basement.

The walk around Trout River was a mixing of making cluttered photographs and running into people that I knew. But instead of dogs following me there were goats.
Joked with the Crockers as Gilbert’s senior’s wife had had bypass surgery and an heart attack but she was out shovelling gravel while watched – he couldn’t help due to his operation for piles.
-hell I could have cut them out and since I know you I’d use a sharp knife.

Gilbert junior came over. Then there were two elderly friends who being my mother’s age asked if they wanted a date.
-hell I have one now I’m trying to get rid of.
-I take trades.

Patsy and her new sign for her socks
A family from Corner Brook who knew Tom Basha.
Wade Barnes and his Dog.
The owner of the shop with the Santa Claus on it.
Winston down from L’anse aux meadows out having a smoke

I kept being asked if I were from Tidy Towns.

The plan was to walk the boardwalk down to the river then the street back up.

Of course I took too long heading down so had to race back so that I could pick up the crew at the appointed time. Great fun in seeing people choosing rocks as souvenirs then walking by saying you do realise that nothing can be taken from the park and if they catch you are heavily fined. I then watch people try to subtly drop their loot usually by pretending that they are only investigating it closely and now they are done with it.

When living over here I always made the comparison between Woody Point and Trout River to Edinburgh and Glasgow. I preferred Woody Point. I liked the intimacy, how it was nestled in the Bay the compactness even with Curzon Village. Trout River seemed too spread out it was almost three towns. While it was on the Gulf it seemed to ignore it as there was a boardwalk between the main drag and the ocean. There were better views from above.

Now I definitely preferred Trout River. Bonne Bay was way too pretty for me, while I am sure it is great for all the owners of Bonne Bay, I don’t think I could take yet another baffled person at Granite Coffee or looking puzzled outside the Chicken Coop.

Although the most surreal scene to-day happened as a coachload of Quebécois were deposited in downtown Trout River to walk the boardwalk and maybe head out to the beach.

Even though Marlene complained of no tourists this year for the museum, it was nice to see part of the city not devoted to tourism. There were people actually trying to make their living fishing and the fishing community was quite active if not thriving.

Admittedly Trout River is scruffier and I don’t think I would want to drive the Gulch for a drink at the Legion and one thinks twice when on sees a sign -

WHEN FLASHING THE ROAD BETWEEN TROUT RIVER AND WOODY POINT IS CLOSED.

There is only one road.

But still. It could be that romanticism that was manifest by those television programmes Northern Exposure, or Men in Trees being at the edge of nowhere and not simply functioning but thriving. This could also be why Rocky Harbour doesn’t do it for me. There is something about the commitment to go and then the commitment to stay that I still cannot shake.

Headed back to Woody Point for a coffee at Granite Coffee, thinking that it would be outside in the fresh air not forgetting the states penchant for modified air even when it isn’t needed. So we sat indoors looking at a harried Viola instead of the water and people passing by. Saw Marilyn, made some nostalgia images. Looked at my snaps hanging in the legion and headed back to Rocky Harbour.