Sunday 3 August 2008

Cod tongues, flakes and seal flippers

I could tell the that my fellow travellers needed a break from the push west so reluctantly I gave up the idea of seeing one of the four corners of the world in Fogo so that they could find some stability. Much like I gave up the hope of ferrying along the south coast to remote outports – next time maybe – another mantra.

I had planned a day of rest as I needed one also and it was to have been the day before but due to the late arrival of the ferry and the minor motoring problems with the machine, that day was lost.

Seeing how far back it was to the ferry then the ferry ride I reckoned that I would not only have a mutiny but also would myself be so trapped into making time that nothing would come of this trip.

I simply had to remind myself of that old saying journey not destination. We were in a new place why not explore.

so after laundry – another way of feeling normal and settling in – and an attempt to finally dry the clothes on the line - a wander to the north island on a mauzy day. A wander of things and some Newfoundland formalism.

I found a new ikon entering the snaps – mops. They seemed to be everywhere.

Found that the shore wasn’t as interesting to me as to what people had around their houses, those little aspects of domesticity. Conversely I was tending to document those grand gathering places – legion halls.

The walk was aborted quite quickly by a downpour that ended as soon as we made it back to the cottage.

On the second foray ran into Ontario Paul who gave us more tips of what to see while walking the north island but then also asking if we wanted to lift. No thanks

Met another Paul while photographing around his house talked about the fisheries to which we went into his shed to see his cod flake. Baleful the intern’s carnivore tendencies were weakening.

More conveniences, more basketball hoops, more sheds, a cab trap on a picnic table that reminded me of a waterman’s version of an inukshuk.

Looking at the coast I wondered what distinguished nostalgia and pure garbage. There were entire machines rushing on the shore. I found bathtubs etc which I ignored but made sure that I made snaps of the moose head.

Thinking this a rest day, I didn’t pack a lot of film and thought that I was running low – it wasn’t a especially prolific day that I remember there was simply the situations I steer toward – I decided to head back to pick up more. On the way though, there were a few more things that guided me away from the cottage.

I was trying somehow juxtapose a root cellar with the Foodland and was dancing about the grounds of the Loyal Orange Order. For some reason I looked up and there were a pair of women in each of the three windows. Waved and reckoned it was time to walk back for more film as I had told Baleful the intern that I would meet her there for round two.


Passing the entrance to the building I raced up the stairs determined to photograph them.
- ok it is now your turn.
Thought that I would end on that.

Well not really there was a liquor agency that I was trying to photograph but clients kept parking in front of the façade, some more Newfoundland formalism and things left behind.

When we arrive it seems that Wayne had stopped by and left a cod casserole. Yummy. Half was gone.

Back out again discussing what happens living in a small place and the personalities of those who can take it versus those who cannot. The fact that nothing is private but there is a looking out for others, Baleful the intern mentions that she wouldn’t be a part of it.
- you already are. I am sure that our exploits have made it up and down the town by now. Two people walking talking to people and making snaps? I am guessing that no one is surprised by us now. Feeling peckish we went up to the fish market for lunch.
No sooner than she asks the owner takes out his knife and picks a piece of crab out for her to taste.

He offers some to me but when hearing I am a vegetarian starts to back away.


Although she likes the crab and he supposedly makes a mean crab burger, she almost chooses fish and chips.

Yessiree travelled at that time 1500 miles to have fish and chips. A crab burger it was.

While waiting the owners daughters – one, Chantelle - wants to be a photographer told her of a great school in St John’s. She asked what I taught.

-Kindergarten.

Anyway while Baleful the intern was munching down on the crab burger, the two daughter had to weigh cod tongues. What an educational experience.

-Now all you need to see to finish off the experience is a seal flipper.
The owner produces a frozen pair to show.
It seems that Paul the fisherman is his friend he know Wayne the owner of the cottage. The intern is shocked.

This continues to happen, someone we spoke to mentioned that I had been by and made a snap to someone else. Wayne knows St. Catherine’s Paul.

The wander sort of becomes going through the motion, some things may be interesting but by then the conversation was better than what I was seeing. It seems to happen when I stock up on too much film.

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